City of Canals and Waking Dreams
Venice is without a doubt one of my favorite places on Earth. I thought everyone loved it, but I’ve heard from a lot of my friends that they didn’t fall under the same Venetian spell I did. I’ve been to the city three times now, so I figured I should finally make a travel guide here on the blog for it!
The first time I visited Venice was for Carnevale (the long celebration that happens every year before Lent, and is famous in Venice). I was immediately in love. As someone who is most content being around water, the floating city is like a waking dream to me. It’s even more romantic at night, which I found out on my second and third visits when I stayed overnight. Below is pretty much everything I know about the city of canals, and all you need to have the best time in Venezia. And, maybe fall in love with it as I have over and over again, and will continue to the rest of my life I’m sure…
Included in this travel guide:
- At a glance info
- Stay
- Transportation
- See/Do
- Eat/Drink
- Carnevale tips
At a glance
A lot of people are concerned about tourism ruining Venice, and it’s a real issue that has had real effects on the city. Read this article before you go, to make sure you travel responsibly. I also loved the outlook provided in this article, Are We Loving Venice to Death? which proves that Venice is in fact, still alive, and there are people dedicating their lives to the survival of Authentic Venice.
All of the following information will help you prepare for arriving in the city and enjoying your time there, but one thing to also consider is what you’ll leave with to remember your time in the floating city. The signature souvenirs to buy in Venice are hand-blown glass from Murano, lace from Burano, and handmade masks (the authentic ones have a red seal on the back).
The famed glass blowers of Murano Island make pretty much everything out of glass, but my favorite items to buy have been bracelets and rosaries. They are so beautiful! To find a handmade mask when you first arrive, if you’re there for Carnevale, head to the kiosks off of Piazza San Marco under the trees. It’s also a great spot for hand painted watercolors. Or try Campo Bella Vienna for more kiosks with masks.
One thing I experienced last time I was there were shops identifying that they were owned by locals, not foreign entities. Stick to these shops to support the dwindling local population, and be conscious of where you choose to stay. This shopping guide is a super comprehensive, useful resource to do just that (written by a Venetian native).
Airbnbs are great but they are also forcing natives out of their homes with increasing rent prices and rising tourist numbers. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t stay overnight, I actually think it’s best to prioritize staying overnight. You will then be subjected to small city tax, but that’s better than tramping around the city for a day without contributing much to the local economy.
People often opt to visit Venice just for the day because it’s not known for its nightlife. I am here to tell you that it does exist! My friends and I found plenty to do once the sun went down. One night we bopped around to live music at a bar, and the next we found a piazza brimming with people and a bar you could just walk right up to! It was so unexpected and spontaneous. It’s also magical to just walk around the city by night and take it all in without the crowds or the rush of the day’s activities. And if you can catch the sun rising over the Grand Canal and the city waking up, well that’s just an added bonus.
Stay
Centro Culturale Don Orione Artigianelli: I loved my stay in this converted monastery. It was accommodating for our school group, but can be booked by individuals too. The location in the Dorsoduro/Accademia neighborhood was perfect. Nestled between the lagoon and the Grand Canal, we could walk everywhere and still have easy vaporetto access to get to the other islands (such as Murano to see a glass-blowing demonstration). At night we could stumble back home from beyond Ponte Rialto without worrying about water buses, only navigating the narrow alleyways that make Venice so charming.
Generator Hostel: loved this spot for its location, design, and price!! Staying in Venice isn’t cheap, but it was here. The hostel is located on Giudecca Island, which is only two vaporetto stops from Piazza San Marco. Plus the views across the lagoon to Doge’s Palace are unbeatable, I couldn’t believe my eyes when I got to our room. The suites are small, but the bathrooms are connected and everyone gets a storage locker. Plus I love the ease of hostel life and the free advice from the knowledgeable front desk staff.
Wombat Hostel: I’ve also heard that Wombat is opening a location in Venice in August. Checkout this post if you’re wondering about what other hostel recommendations I have in Europe. And, this post for what to do once you arrive at your destination!
Transportation
Venice is, not surprisingly, an island. So getting there may seem complicated or overwhelming, especially if it’s your first time. Here’s a breakdown of the different ways to get to Venice.
By boat: The one time I visited Venice just for the day, our tour bus parked outside the city and we took a chartered bus. This may be an option if you are traveling with a group. I beg you, though, do not arrive to Venice on a cruise ship. I’m of the opinion that they should be banned.
By plane: Venice is serviced by two airports. I flew into Venice Treviso airport last time I visited. It’s outside of the city, so I hopped on an ATVO bus to get to Venice’s Piazzale Roma (about a 40 minute ride). The bus is affordable and probably the most convenient way to get into the center of Venice. From there, the vaporetto can get you anywhere.
By train: The station to arrive and depart from is Santa Lucia, which occupies a beautiful spot on the Grand Canal. It’s one of my favorite lines to ride–there’s a bridge that goes over the water so you’re surrounded on both sides by sky and sea.
Once you’re there, transportation is a whole other story. Aside from walking, water buses (vaporetti) and water taxis are the best ways to get around. Venice has a pass called the Venezia Unica which has a myriad of different ticket package options. It may be best to buy this online in advance so that you can see the different choices. The ticket will get you on the vaporetti, as well as into a lot of museums and landmarks. I also found out that taxis offer ride-sharing now, so that is a great option as well!
When riding the vaporetto, it’s important to know which direction you need to be going, like riding any bus or subway line. If you want to visit another island aside from the main one, like Murano or Burano, it’s easiest to take a vaporetto. Settle in and dress warm because the journey might take a while!
Finally, expect to get lost. That’s just part of Venice’s charm! While walking, instead of following a map, just follow the signs for “Per S. Marco” or “Per Rialto” to get near where you need to go.
See/Do
You can gain entry into many museums through your Venezia Unica pass. There is also a museum pass available through the Fondazione Museo Civici di Venezia, if you plan to visit many of them! Look into it ahead of time.
Piazza di San Marco ~ St. Mark’s Square: famously called “Europe’s Drawing Room.” It’s the most beautiful. Just don’t feed the pigeons or the seagulls, they ruin the monuments even if you think it’s a cool photo-op with the birds.
Climb the campanile ~ bell tower in San Marco: one thing I’ve tried to do but haven’t had time for in Venice. Check its hours to make sure you go when it’s open! I’d love to see Venice’s red tile roofs and aqua blue canals from above.
Basilica di San Marco ~ St. Mark’s Basilica: One of the most beautiful basilicas in Italy, especially if you like gold mosaics. The style is Byzantine, notable from the outside and the inside. Just watch your step, the floors are unfortunately warped from flooding.
Piazza San Marco, 328, 30100 Venezia VE, Italy
Bridge of Sighs: view this famous bridge from outside, or if you tour Doge’s Palace you can walk inside of it. It’s the bridge prisoners walked across on their way to the dungeon, where they took one last look at Venice and sighed.
Palazzo Ducale ~ Doge’s Palace: beautiful palace on Piazza San Marco with incredible art. Book a tour so you know what you’re looking at and get the chance to hear about Venice’s mysterious past full of reigning doge and secrets and betrayal galore.
Piazza San Marco, 1, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy
Ponte di Rialto ~ Rialto Bridge: famous marble bridge over the Grand Canal. Best observed at night when it’s less crowded and the lights of boats and palazzi are reflecting off the black water.
Church of San Giorgio Maggiore: I still haven’t been here myself but I need to!! It’s beautiful silhouette stars in many photos I have in Venice, and I would love to see the interior.
Isola di S.Giorgio Maggiore, 30133 Venezia VE, Italy
Ca’Rezzonico Museo: 18th century baroque-style museum inside of a palace, located on the Grand Canal. One of my absolute favorite museums in Europe!
Dorsoduro, 3136, 30123 Venezia VE, Italy
Peggy Guggenheim Collection: I can’t believe I’ve been to Venice three times and still haven’t paid this famous museum a visit! Like Ca’Rezzonico, it also occupies a coveted spot along the Grand Canal. So it is valuable both for its art and its views.
Dorsoduro, 701-704, 30123 Venezia VE, Italy
Il Museo del Vetro ~ Glass Museum: the glass museum on the island of Murano, with incredible pieces of glass art. It’s important to the history of Venice and a beautiful escape from the main island. Filled with wondrous pieces of glass art, you’ll find it hard to believe they were really made by hand.
Fondamenta Marco Giustinian, 8, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
Chiesa di Santa Maria e San Donato: church near the glass museum with beautiful mosaic floors. Pay a visit if you happen to be nearby!
Calle S. Donato, 11, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
Glass blowing on Murano Island: something you have to see! It’s an incredible process to watch the artisans mold the glass from practically nothing into a beautiful work of art.
Teatro La Fenice: one of Italy’s famous opera halls, for those theater lovers.
Campo San Fantin, 1965, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy
Ride the No. 1 vaporetto on the Grand Canal: or any vaporetto that goes along the Grand Canal. Take in all the beautiful palazzi and watch daily life in Venice take place around you while you cruise down the canal (basically a free activity if you’ve already got a Venezia Unica pass).
Gondola ride: shop around and pick a gondolier who seems the most entertaining! I’m waiting to be in Venice with the right person to do this oh-so-romantic activity. I think it’d be extremely dreamy at night, exploring empty canals and wondering what’s behind the mysterious facades off the main alleyways.
Eat/Drink
Bar Ristorante Da Gino Venezia: If you stay in the converted monastery or find yourself in Dorsoduro, this is the place to stop for a caffeine break. I took an espresso here every morning, because while the monastery breakfast was great, the coffee was far from it. And when in Italy, getting a fix of cafe culture is most important.
Dorsoduro, 853A, 30123 Venezia VE, Italy
Bar da Monica: if you stay on Giudecca Island, across the lagoon from Piazza San Marco, this place is perfect for a morning espresso or panini lunch! Such a cute spot, nice barista, and a lovely bar made of suitcases.
Fondamenta Croce, 80-81, 30133 Venezia VE, Italy
Rivo Alto: possibly the most touristy spot to stop for an espresso or an aperitif, but its view of the Rialto Bridge and people-watching along the Grand Canal leave nothing to be desired. Plus the burl wood tables and checkered floor speak of the Venice of the past, something I’m all too curious about and will definitely pay extra to dream about while I sip my caffé.
Sestiere di S. Marco, 5150, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy
Caffè Florian : one of the oldest cafes in the world, you can’t miss it in its prime location on Piazza San Marco. Because of its fame, prices are high. But if you can afford it, grab a cappuccino and enjoy the music along with the best people watching in Europe.
Piazza San Marco, 57, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy
Bar Verde: a great place to stop for lunch, especially if you’re in the mood for a sandwich. It’s located on Calle de le Rasse, near Piazza San Marco, which Rick Steves has deemed “Sandwich Row.” I like to take mine to-go and eat it overlooking a canal.
Calle de le Rasse, 4621, 30122 Venezia VE, Italy
Drink a Bellini: they were invented in Venice at Harry’s Bar! My favorite thing to do is grab a mini bottle and find a quiet spot along the Grand Canal to sit and watch the traffic go by. Best enjoyed in the afternoon sun, in my humble opinion.
Valpolicella wine: also a must-drink item when in Venice. It’s my favorite full-bodied red that comes from the Veneto region. Whenever I’m there, I take full-advantage and have it with every meal.
Cicchetti: Venice’s version of happy hour/aperitivo and it does not disappoint! Get a glass of vino or an aperitif and pick out a few crostini to try. Here are a few of my favorite spots to do so…
- La Bussola Cocktail Lab, or any spot on that piazza. Campo Bella Vienna is where all the locals and university students hangout.
Campo Bella Vienna, Calle del Scaleter, 222, 30125 Venezia VE, Italy - Cantine del Vino già Schiavi a tiny spot, so definitely grab it to-go and enjoy along the canal. One of my favorite Venetian nights started with cicchetti here, and I’ll never forget it!
Fondamenta Nani, 992, 30123 Dorsoduro, Venezia VE, Italy
Ristorante San Trovaso: Delicious seafood and risotto, Venice staples done well. A bonus if you can sit in the garden area! Calle Larga Nani, 967, 30100 Venezia VE, Italy
Il Diavolo E L’Acqua Santa: a very local, simple osteria that will make you feel like you stepped back in time. Affordable, so go for that bottle of vino to make the meal even more enjoyable.
Calle della Madonna, 561, 30121 Venezia VE, Italy
Ostaria al Garanghelo: one of my most favorite meals in Italy, ever. The kind man behind the bar recommended what I should order, a delish seafood pasta. We also shared a long table with the cutest couple on their honeymoon, and the conversations that ensued after dinner were as memorable as the meal.
Calle dei Botteri, 1570, 30125 Venezia
Carnevale
If you’re visiting the floating city for its famous carnevale celebrations, you’re in for an exciting and mystical time. I recommend picking up a mask to wear for the day, and maybe take a few selfies with those who are in full costume (if you’re brave enough to approach them). My friend and I had such a laugh doing this frantically before we had to catch our boat!
Don’t miss the parade of floats down the Grand Canal or the festivities in Piazza San Marco. Try a fritelle or two–the round, sometimes filled, delicious pastry that only makes appearances in the pasticceria this time of year. Expect crowds, but know that if you wander far enough away you’ll be able to find some peace and quiet.
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