6 December 2018
Travel

Florence travel guide

a Renaissance City Reborn

map via google images.

Florence was my home for five months, so I have endless recommendations that could quickly fill a long visit. But I know not everyone has that much time in the Renaissance city, so prioritizing activities is key. Since I returned to Florence in January, I decided to update this guide and make it even more detailed.

I’ve included the mainstays, museums and piazzi worth gaping at, and the places that I found myself returning to again and again. The ones another traveler may miss if they’re short on days. But I assure you, time spent strolling along the Arno at night or watching the sunset from above a graveyard will teach you more about la bella vita than anything else will. Take the time to live for a little while like an Italian, and you will like the city that much more.

Included in this guide:

  • What to See/Do
  • Museums
  • Where to Stay

For additional posts on Florence, check out:

TO SEE

Florence is FULL of landmarks to see. I recommend not restricting yourself to viewing them during the day. Strolling the city at night can be a much more peaceful time to admire the architecture or the unmatched intricacies of the pink and green marble facade of the duomo, without the droves of people and tour groups that seem to take over during the day.  

Ponte Vecchio: or in English, the “old bridge,” is one of Florence’s most well-known landmarks. It is the only one of Florence’s bridges to survive bombing during World War II, and is home to beautiful jewelry shops. Stroll across it during the day to window shop, and at night to stop and listen to the musician that usually stops to play in the middle.

Piazza della Signoria and Piazza della Repubblica: both beautiful squares to see! I will never forget the first time I saw Piazza della Signoria and my jaw just dropped open upon entering the piazza from a narrow side street. It soon became my favorite to walk through at night, through the Uffizi from the river. Piazza della Repubblica is a different scene at night, with lots of Italian youths gathering there before going out.

Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo, Santa Croce, etc.: these churches are always worth a visit for their unmatched art and architectural beauty, not to mention the tombs of famous artists, patrons, and other famed Renaissance figures. Wear a coat when visiting in the winter, the churches can be quite cold!

Medici Chapels: connected to the church of San Lorenzo, these chapels contain important Renaissance history, as well as a few members of the Medici family in the crypt below the floor. Reserve a ticket to see Michelangelo’s work in the New Sacristy.

Rose Garden & Iris Gardens: both are located near the Piazzale and worth a visit! If you’re visiting Florence in one of the warmer seasons, pack a picnic to enjoy in the rose garden, another spot I recommend to get away from the city for awhile and view it from above.

Piazza Santo Spirito: a hip and very local area with a lot of great artisanal shopping, aperitivo stops, and restaurants.

Street Art: observe the street art as much as you can! It’s everywhere in Florence…quite a few famous street artists have made the city their canvas. Among them, Clet Abrahams, Blub, and Enter/Exit.

TO DO

Below are some of my favorite activities to lose myself in while in Florence. Some off the beaten path, some right in front of your very eyes, all inspiring in the Renaissance city.

Piazzale Michelangelo: the perfect place to view the sunset over the city.

San Miniato al Monte: climb a little further uphill from Piazzale Michelangelo and you’ll reach my personal favorite spot to see the sunset away from the crowds. Arrive around 6:00 pm to hear the monks sing in the crypt by candlelight, a centuries old tradition

Arno River: if you asked me what I liked to do at night when I lived in Florence, I probably would have answered by saying strolling along the Arno at night. It’s so peaceful once the crowds have retreated, and I love how the hillsides are lit up and the water reflects dreamily on the base of the Ponte Vecchio.

Biblioteca delle Oblate: possibly one of the best local secrets, this library is home to a great rooftop cafe in central Florence. Enjoy a coffee or an aperitivo with your view, or stop by during the day to read an American paper.

Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio and Mercato Centrale: the best markets! Visiting the market is something I love to do while traveling, as it’s such an easy way to access everyday life of the people who live there. I’m partial to Sant’Ambrogio because it’s around the corner from my apartment, but Mercato Centrale doesn’t dissapoint either.

Scuola di Cuoio: tour the leather school, located behind the church of Santa Croce, it offered employment to orphans during WWII and has had a long history of giving jobs and teaching the skills of the trade to those in need.

Leather Markets: I’ll highlight these a little more in my Florence Shopping Guide, but they are a must visit. The scent of leather permeates the city, and is an integral part of its story.

Rub the Boar’s Nose: By one of the leather markets, in Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, you’ll find the porcellino statue. Rub its nose to ensure your return to Florence. Or, as some traditions state, put a coin inside its mouth and hope it falls into the grate below!

Pasta Making: it’s so fun to take a cooking class when visiting a new country, especially a place like Italy where pretty much everyone is passionate about food. My friend and I did the PASTAMANIA Airbnb Experience and it was soooo fun. The meal afterwards, diving into all the pasta we made and a glass of organic wine, was delicious and relaxing.

MUSEUMS

Keep in mind that Florence’s museums are free the first Sunday of every month, and additional days throughout the year. There are also 3-day museum passes you can purchase that will allow entry into various museums throughout the city.

Palazzo Vecchio: Florence’s town hall, home to some of the most intricate and intriguing rooms in Florence, including a map room with a secret passageway. The tower can also be climbed, for another perspective on the city. The Medici’s lived here for a time too, and Eleanora had a grate to spy into the large ballroom (so Princess Diaries of her).

Uffizi Gallery: an obvious stop in Florence, as it’s one of the best art museums in the world. Give yourself plenty of time to look around, the gallery is doable in two hours but it’s better to take your time. If you’re looking for a more informed visit, consider booking a tour.

Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Gardens:this property is amazing inside and outside. Take a trip to the other side of the river, called the Oltrarno, and you’ll quickly happen upon Piazza Pitti and the imposing palace that the Medici’s once called home. The Gardens are magnificent, with the ornate grotto pictured above, and offer an unparalleled view of the duomo.

Accademia Gallery: stop by to see Michelangelo’s David and that’s about it! Be prepared to wait in line, or schedule a tour with a designated time, especially during high tourist season.

Duomo Museum: another must in Florence. The Duomo has one ticket for everything, including the museum and both the bell tower and the dome. Reserve your time to climb the bell tower or the dome right away when you buy the ticket (keep in mind that sunset is a nice time to climb, it takes about 20 minutes or so to get to the top). It’s definitely not for the claustrophobic, as you’ll be climbing between the two layers of Brunelleschi’s dome. If you are worried, I recommend starting with the bell tower on day one because there is an opportunity to stop and get fresh air as you go up. The interior of the cathedral is always free and open to the public, except during mass time.

Gucci Garden: a must-see in my opinion, if you’re interested in fashion and history! It’s located in Piazza Signoria, and their gift shop and cafe are too-die-for.

Palazzo Strozzi: is always home to interesting, usually modern, art exhibitions. Check out their site before your visit to see what’s currently on display!

L’Ospedale degli Innocenti: a great museum experience off the beaten path, and I can’t recommend it enough. It will give you an interesting look into a part of Florence’s past that is otherwise looked over. Afterwards, be sure to spend a moment enjoying Piazza della Santissima Annunziata, my favorite Florentine piazza where you can observe Brunelleschi’s work and if you’re there at lunch, possibly a school group of kids with matching caps on.

Stibbert Museum: one of Florence’s best kept secrets, museum and garden wise. It’s about a 25 minute walk out of the city center, but worth every step. The museum was started by John Stibbert, and amongst his personal collection is knights and armour. While the contents of the palazzo are interesting, the interiors themselves will impress any guest. Allow yourself extra time to visit the gardens after your tour. The smell of pine is intoxicating after spending time in the center!

Bargello Museum: I can’t believe I haven’t been here yet, as it’s one of Florence’s main museums. Its in a former jail, and has many Renaissance pieces to boot.

Church of Santo Stefano al Ponte: this has to be one of my favorite museum experiences to date. This de-consecrated church tucked away near the Ponte Vecchio holds exhibitions during which they showcase famous artist’s work (I saw Klimt, but didn’t make it to Van Gogh in January) using projectors on the walls and screens. Check the website to see what artist is being showcased.

Orsanmichele: former home of the guilds of Florence, this gem is only open on Monday’s. Most visitors to Florence if you have more time.

TO STAY

I lived in an apartment while in Florence, but I do have great insight on its different neighborhoods that could be very helpful when booking an Airbnb or hostel!

San Lorenzo: is closest to Florence’s main train station, Santa Maria Novella, and very close to the Duomo and what is considered the center of Florence. Also where the main leather market is, and has a hopping nightlife scene.

Sant’Ambrogio: was my neighborhood, and is the best in my opinion! A little further from the train station (a 20 minute walk), but still close enough to everything that walking is always your best option. Sant’Ambrogio feels like a true Florentine neighborhood, with one of the best markets for picking up produce, meats, cheeses, and fresh pasta. It is full of hidden gems in the forms of cozy trattorias and bustling cafes.

Santa Croce: is the place for the real nightlife scene. It’s also close to the river, and of course to the main tourist spots (Florence is easily walkable!!). Santa Croce borders Sant’Ambrogio, so I spent a lot of time there. While it’s got the nightlife scene, you can also count on Santa Croce as the place for a peaceful walk on a sunny day or quiet evening.

Santo Spirito: is my favorite area of Florence, aside from Sant’Ambrogio. My yoga studio was here, along with my favorite spots for aperitivo and pizza! In addition, Piazza Santo Spirito is always bustling with life, great for people watching and to catch a market if you’re there the right day of the week.

San Frediano: is the place if you’re looking for peace at the end of your day and to see a quiet, real side of Florence. Also located ‘across the river,’ it’s still a short walk to everything.

buon viaggio!

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