My Italian summer 2023

I am so late to post this as I unintentionally took a long hiatus from the blog while I settled into my life in Rome. But, it’s one of the best posts of the year and I had to document yet another beautiful estate italiana. This summer of course was the first time I was really truly living in Rome and not just stationed there for a few months, so it was actually also full of bureaucratic paperwork, apartment hunting, moving, AND long days at the sea and wild nights out.

I have to say, though, Venus being in retrograde all summer was so apparent to me. Venus is the planet that rules beauty and love, so if you also felt like your summer was a little less magical than the year before [me] that was probably why. But, it was still full of beautiful places and a lot of traveling before my classes started in September.

As always, let’s dive into where I went…

Santa Severa

The first day at the sea often ends up being Santa Severa because it’s a short train ride away from Roma. I usually post up at the first lido closest to the castle…that first swim in the Tyrrhenian sea always feels SO good (it was long-awaited, last winter was so cold and long). As always, I ended up with a weird tan line that stayed with me all summer. Don’t forget sunscreen around your ankles…

Marechiaro

This was my secret hideaway all summer, thanks to my friend Jenn. It’s close to Anzio, and just one hour by train from Termini. I love the Blue Bay lido there and often went even by myself. If you’re looking to spend a beach day surrounded by cute guys from Rome, this is a good spot. I even became known as “Margherita la straniera” because every time I called to book my sun chair, I would say my name is Margaret, like Margherita, and the signora in charge of reservations wrote me down as Margherita straniera. She cracks me up. I love staying here until sunset, when the music starts and the spritz are flowing.

Lecce, Gallipoli, and Salento, Puglia

My first trip of the summer was down to Puglia, to stay with friends in Salento. It was my first time going that far south in Puglia, and I was so excited to see a new area of the region and be there with my friends. I took the train to Lecce and they picked me up, and we spent the week walking from their place to the beach and spending hours under the sun. The water there is beautiful, and every night we had great meals—including one night in Gallipoli that I’ll never forget. We explored Lecce before my train back to Rome, and I came back with some beautiful linens that I love.

Tropea and Reggio Calabria, Calabria

Like the last two summers, I spent time in Tropea. It’s truly my favorite weeks of the summer. This year it was a bit quieter than normal and we had a few days of rough sea (which is why we took an afternoon trip to Reggio Calabria, where we enjoyed shopping and sushi), but I still enjoyed swimming in the crystal clear blue waters and watching every sunset with awe, Stromboli always looming on the horizon.

Firenze and Castiglioncello

Took a quick weekend trip to stay with my friend in Florence before classes started. It was such a nice time and gave me fresh inspiration to be in another city, even if it’s one I know well. It was SO hot, of course, so we took advantage of a free Saturday and headed to Castiglioncello, where one of my other friend summers. It was so beautiful and literally looked like a photo out of my mood board. It made me so grateful for my friends, too, and the connections I’ve made here.

Como, Molina, and Milano

I said yes to an opportunity that brought me to northern (and southern) Italy the last weekend of summer. We were based in Molina, right outside of Como, high above the lake. It was my first time at Lake Como and it was truly surreal, the mountains towering over the lake as they do. I took a day trip to Milan during my free day, to visit the Castello Sforzesco and enjoy the city.

Manduria

The last stop on this last trip of summer was down to Puglia (I was babysitting for a coworker who had two weddings in Italy, one day after the other, on opposite sides of the country). We flew from Milan to Brindisi and when I stepped off the plane, it was like coming home. I am such a southern Italy girl…sorry if you prefer the north. We stayed in a beautiful masseria—Masseria Cuturi—and even though I’d already been to Puglia three times, I feel like I finally understood its magic thanks to this place. I want to go back, maybe on a romantic weekend! The setting was perfect.