Rome travel guide

the charming eternal city

Updated Spring 2019.

My humble suggestions for the Eternal City…some borrowed from friends who lived there and professors who grew up there, others discovered by wandering and following our whims. Either way, any day spent in Roma should be made the most of, and it’s best to be prepared. From bars hidden in basements of a bookstore to an impromptu stop at a Jazz concert that had everyone in a mamba line outside the ristorante, Rome has surprises at every turn, not even counting the Roman ruins encountered at literally every turn. Sometimes the breadth of the city is hard to wrap your head around, there are so many monuments, fountains, churches, and museums.

In addition to my suggestions below, I suggest spending every night taking a post-dinner passeggiata (Italian for a stroll). It’s the most relaxed way to take in the never-ending charm and wonders of the ancient center of the world. By day, Rome appears to be like any Italian city, stretching so far it seems never ending at times. But at night, the lights on the river stretch so far it appears Eternal for other reasons. It can become surprisingly quiet, when I think of the chaos of the day, but the city pulses with the beat of thousands of years behind it.

Included in this guide:

• The Vibe
• Transportation
• What to See/Do
• Where to Eat/Drink
• Accomodations

THE VIBE

I fell in love with Rome the first time I set eyes on its orange-tree lined streets, the hills and layers and ruins around every corner. I walked through a world that had existed so long before me that I couldn’t believe I still had the privilege of walking its worn and loved cobblestone streets. The colors, so rich and saturated they felt so alive so as not to be so worn and deteriorated upon closer examination. The number of sites to see, without even considering the museums or parks, were enough to send me walking miles without count or care, and collapse into my bed at night, tired but too invigorated by the soul of Roma taking over me to sleep.

To get a feel for a city, I love to follow locals on Instagram. A few of my favorite that share their daily life in Rome are Natalie from An American in Rome and Maria from Heart Rome. For more curated, beautiful photos, I like to follow Davide Oricchio (he also shares amazing photos of Paris, where he currently lives).  

TRANSPORTATION

My favorite way to get around and see the city is on foot, but if you’re hoping to visit some of the museums or the stadium that are further outside the center, Rome has a tram. I have also found their buses to be helpful when transporting from the train station (Roma Termini is typically best for travelers) into the center. To get to the airport, head to the nearest taxi stand for a flat rate to either of Rome’s airports (Leonardo da Vinci/Fiumicino is used by major airlines, and Ciampino Airport is used by budget airlines). That way you’ll know how exactly how many euros to have on hand.

TO SEE

Trevi Fountain: don’t forget to throw a coin in. I did forget my first time…I was too busy holding my cone of gelato! Haha, true story. Honestly I was super worried I would never make it back, but alas I did. I especially love this fountain at night, when the crowds have died down and there’s time to marvel at Bernini’s work properly and without rush.

Spanish Steps: really pretty at sunset! Located near all the major designer stores, and if you climb up the steps and go left, you’ll end up in Borghese Park with some of the best views over the rooftops of Rome.

Via del Corso: make sure to include some time before or after you see the Spanish Steps for a stroll down Via del Corso to window shop. All the designer stores live here, and the fashion displays are enviable.

Pantheon: pretty during the day (when you can go inside for free) and at night it’s beautiful to look at from the piazza. Rumor has it the best gelato in Rome can be found right outside this magnificent architectural landmark.

Piazza Navona: beautiful sculptures and history. Check out Al Sogno, a famous toy store on the square that was also featured in my favorite Italian Netflix series, Baby. This is my favorite square to stay near because it’s so central to everything else.

Campo di Fiori: one of Rome’s oldest and most well-known markets. Check out the flowers on the far end of the square. Bellissimi! Open every day except Sunday.

Trastevere: the neighborhood in Rome that everyone loves…its local and charming! I often gravitate towards this area when deciding where to have dinner.

Testaccio: another very local neighborhood with a great market. Brush up on your Italian before you visit or take a guided food tour of the market!

Jewish Ghetto: home to the best artichokes and rich history.

TO DO

The Vatican: you must see St. Peter’s Basilica when in Rome. Set up a tour through the Vatican Museum to get the most out of it, and get access to the Sistine Chapel. I have visited St. Peter’s but still have not seen the Vatican Museums or Sistine Chapel after TWO times in Rome. A train delay caused me to miss the one I had scheduled through Viator Tours. An American in Rome wrote this great article about the best ways to skip the lines.

Papal Audience: happens every Wednesday, and is a once-in-a-lifetime experience to see the Pope firsthand. Another option is to visit the piazza outside of St. Peter’s Basilica on Sunday for the Pope’s address after mass.

Colosseum: an obvious must see. Lines get very long, so I would recommended booking tickets/tour in advance.

Roman Forum: we did a four hour tour through, which was definitely not necessary unless you’re super interested! It is hard to envision what the forum used to be on your own, though, so if you forgo a tour make sure you do a little research before going. Either way, it is a beautiful place in Rome, and some spots offer breathtaking views of the colosseum and the city.

Villa Borghese: the Central Park of Rome, beautiful to just walk around in or rent bikes (it was six euros for an hour, and SO much fun…a nice break from tourist activities to just breathe). Borghese Gallery has amazing art too!

Galleria Borghese: connected to the park, this beautiful museum is a former cardinal’s villa with many famous works of art…tickets have to be bought with a reserved time, no cameras allowed. Really allows you to enjoy the art for what it is. Some of the world’s most famous marble sculptures live here. Piazzale Scipione Borghese, 5

MAXII: modern museum designed by Zaha Hadid. I really enjoyed this one!! Might have to take the tram there depending on where you’re staying, but totally worth it if you like architecture and modern art. Via Guido Reni, 4/a

MACRO: a modern art museum with an awesome rooftop and some cool temporary exhibits (check what’s there before you go). Via Nizza, 138

TO EAT

Da Baffetto: no-frills pizza place that my professor ate at as a kid! Located in a cute area, and serves traditional Roman pizza (thin and crispy crust!). They write the total on the table, and have a menu in every language…go before 8 pm if you want to get a table right away! Via del Governo Vecchio, 114

Trattoria Da Enzo al 29: had a couple of the best meals I’ve ever eaten here! It gets SUPER crowded and people will wait until very late in the night for a table…you could probably make a reservation, but my friends and I managed to slide in before it got busy. We had artichokes as an appetizer (they were amazing, a must in Rome when they’re in season) and carbonara (also amazing). They have a few tables outside! In the lovely Trastevere neighborhood. Via dei Vascellari, 29

Chestnuts on the base of the Spanish Steps: apparently this is the best spot to get them! Rome is so romantic in the winter…the scent of chestnuts roasting, Christmas lights twinkling above every street, cafes decked out in greenery and Christmas decor. Ahhh.  

Pinsere e Parole: rectangular pieces of pizza are a Roman specialty. Called pizza a tavola calda or pizza forno, you can choose how big of a piece you want. Some of the topping creations sound absolutely divine. Via Flavia, 98

TO DRINK

Sant’Eustachio: because the first drink of the day should always be espresso or cappuccino, this place is a MUST VISIT. I don’t say this lightly, but it’s truly the best espresso in the world. Pay first then drink it at the bar like a proper Italian, or let them know you want to sit outside and enjoy your caffeine with a side of people watching. Piazza di S. Eustachio, 82

Mimi e Coco Vinoteca: loved this place because it was only five euros for a spritz, and came with bruschetta, olives, and other little things to snack on! And it was in a cute alley where an old man was singing opera-like to everyone sitting outside…only in Italy! Super close to Da Baffetto too, if you want a drink before you sit down to dinner. Via del Governo Vecchio, 72

Altroquando: if you’re looking for a relaxed place to grab a drink after dinner, this is it. It’s located in the basement of a bookstore, so you can browse some new reads before you head downstairs. Such a fun discovery! Via del Governo Vecchio, 82

Buddy Italian Restaurant Cafe: this place is near Piazza Navona and we stumbled upon an amazing jazz band there one night! The conga line made of total strangers welcomed us in, then snaked around outside before returning back inside. We loved it so much we went back for coffee then later for lunch the next day. Modern menu with eats other than Italian food (I had a delicious vegan burger). Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 107A

Brassai Cocktail Bar: this is a recent discovery from my latest trip to Rome. My friend and I were battling January winds after dinner on our one night in Rome and decided to stop somewhere for a limoncello. This place, right near the bridge that goes over to Castel Sant’Angelo, looked warm and inviting and was the perfect place to stay and linger over our digestivo. Via di Panico, 28

Club Derrière: maybe the coolest place I’ve ever been taken to in Rome. Think speakeasy with high design that also feels like you’re sitting in your really chic friend’s living room. The walls are decorated with farfalle (butterflies) and the door to the bathrooms is hidden behind a bookshelf. Oh and the drinks are great, too. Since it’s a speakeasy, follow these guidelines Condé Nast Traveler layed out. Vicolo delle Coppelle, 59 

Shari Vari: the club scene in Rome is definitely different than Florence. This is a great spot if you’re looking to let loose, with two separate dance floors and big booths. But, according to a friend who lived in Rome, it can be hard to get in, so definitely dress the part.

ACCOMODATIONS

Hotel Navona: this is where I stayed my first time in Rome, with my school, and it was a beautiful location with white marble bathrooms and comfortable rooms. Plus the breakfast spread was pretty great. Also walkable to the best sites and areas in Rome.

GuestLovers Airbnb: takes the cake for my favorite Airbnb, ever. I felt like I was in a luxury hotel, especially when I took not one, but two steaming hot showers (during our one night stay). The hosts made us feel very welcome, offering recommendations upon arrival and fresh towels, candy, and soap on our beds. Another great aspect is that the entry is coded, so you don’t have to worry about sharing keys with your travel buddies.

Follow along on Instagram for more snapshots of Rome, and checkout the highlight I made last time I was there…